Friday 25th May.
We were on the last leg of our trip
heading for the coast somewhere not to far from Roscof and he ferry back to the
U.K. on Monday. We left Laval and skirted around Renes then stopped in a small
commune called Josselin and had coffee and a baguette sandwich. This was an
attractive small French town with a large square obviously used as a market on
Samedis but the rest of the time was a free “camper-stop” and indeed there were
probably 10 campers / motor-homes parked there. We arrived in Beg Mail as we
had previously had a family holiday here but recognising nothing and feeling it
now had little to commend it went on to Benodet. This town was more developed
then we remembered it but there were no camping facilities open near the
centre. Our GPS then found a site called Le Helles on the opposite side of the
estuary from Benodet in a village called Sainte Marine. A nice reasonable sized
site quiet and access to the beach 600 metres from the little port.
Saturday 26th May.
Cloudy morning and looked as if rain
was imminent. We decided to cycle to Loctudy as we had camped there before with
the children. Our mission today was
haircuts. Somehow, we failed to take a turning and on the edge of Ille Tudy we
found a hairdresser called “Au tour de fauteille” where a very helpful lady
fitted us both in – I was done in 10 minutes and then sent away for an hour and
a half while Liz had her more protracted coiffure. I cycled on into the centre
ville where I had a coffee and a beer and watched the boats in the rain. On
returning to meet up with Liz the heavens opened, and it was a somewhat damp
ride back to base camp. In the afternoon it was down to Sainte Marine port for
a Bretton Party. This involved an ambulatory group of what I would guess were
professional actors who re-enacted what we guess was a Bretton Wedding and
scenes from Breton life – lots of black skirts white head dresses and Sunday
best embroidered aprons. There was music accompaniment from some Brittany bag
pipes, an accordion, a copper recorder/small trumpet like instrument a lady
playing fiddle. Lots of dancing a scene involving boats and French dialog which
I think at times lapsed into Breton.
We then killed a couple of hours doing
a café crawl comparing prices suspecting a cartel but no definite evidence just
confirming that the pound is a pretty rubbish currency these days.
The evening entertainment was a
concert in the Keréol Park, hence “Keroc nRoll”, advertised starting at 18.30.
We made our way to a superbly set park looking out over the estuary. There was
a bar set up, frites and sausage counter as well as freshly made “kouin”
(crepes). Placed around the site was welded sculptures which really looked like
piles of scrap iron until it was dark and the illuminations brought them to
life. To one side of the stage were trestle tables and benches where we sat and
eat our supper the kouin was delicious. Several wines/beers later a double act
went on stage, and they were some sort of French Rap artists. At 9.30pm we were
feeling restless and were almost about to go home when the main act came on a
four piece band – drums, 2 guitars and a fiddle player who also played guitar.
The vocalist could perform in French and English. They were very good the
fiddle player was brilliant and they went from Rock Folk to hard rock – all in
all a good day.
Langoustines for sale and don't get crabby about the price madame |
And she played the vio vio violin |
According to tradition I should wear clogs and a beret. |
Punting about Breton style |
Conga a la Breton |
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